It threw me under the bus of a two-day obsessive read. The LA Times said, “It’s also about a writer’s life and, even more generally, a quester’s life, more carefully observed and precisely rendered than any I’ve read in a long time.” The Wall Street Journal called it “gorgeously written and intensely felt… dare I say that we all need Mr Finnegan… as a role model for a life, thrillingly, lived.” It also includes ten thousand dollars in prize money to each category winner. The Pulitzer Prize, of course, is America’s most prestigious award in journalism. Three years ago, it won the Pulitzer Prize for biography. The prize committee praised it as, “A finely crafted memoir of a youthful obsession that has propelled the author through a distinguished writing career.” Pulitzer Prize-winning surf memoir reveals surfers as anti-egalitarian, territorialist, and exclusionary.ĭo you remember the surf memoir called Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by the New Yorker’s Bill Finnegan?
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